Monsaraz is one of those villages that leave a lasting impression. Not because of the number of monuments or the list of activities, but because of the way time passes there—or seems to pass—differently from the rest of the world. Within its medieval walls, with the Alqueva glistening below on one side, the Alentejo plain on the other, and the silence of the Alentejo enveloping us on all sides, we realize that some things don’t need to be rushed—they need to be savored.
This guide was written for those who want more than just a quick visit. For those who truly want to get to know this region—its flavors, its history, and its people. And for those who choose Horta da Moura as their starting point, there’s a special advantage: we’re right here, just a few minutes from everything.
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What You Can't Miss, No Matter How Much Time You Have
Monsaraz Castle
Conquered from the Moors in 1167 by D. Afonso Henriques and entrusted first to the Order of Santiago and later to the Order of Malta, Monsaraz Castle is one of the best-preserved castles on the Iberian Peninsula. From its battlements, the view over the Alqueva and the Alentejo plain is absolutely unforgettable—at sunset, when the sky glows orange and lilac, you can see why photographers from all over the world come here specifically to capture this moment. Do the same.
The village itself is like a trip back in time: streets with uneven cobblestones, houses painted white and blue, little shops selling traditional handicrafts, the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa with its 14th-century Gothic frescoes, and the Manueline pillory in the main square—one of the best-preserved in the Alentejo.
The Legend of the Six Cows—and the Genius of D. Nuno Álvares Pereira
In 1385, during the succession crisis that pitted Portugal against Castile, the castle fell under Castilian rule. Constable D. Nuno Álvares Pereira—one of the greatest military heroes in Portuguese history, who would soon lead the victory at Aljubarrota—besieged Monsaraz with his army. Days passed without the defenders yielding. D. Nuno realized they were running out of supplies and had an idea that only a man of genius could have. One dark night, he ordered a local farmer to release six wild and starving cows near the castle, where there was good pasture. The Castilian defenders, starving and tempted by the sight of the cattle, opened the gates to capture them. It was a fatal mistake: Don Nuno’s men, hidden in the undergrowth, prevented the gates from closing, and the castle was retaken before the Castilian reinforcements could arrive.
Six cows. That’s how Monsaraz was reconquered for Portugal—and it has remained part of Portugal ever since.
D. Nuno Álvares Pereira is such a prominent figure in this region that we also pay tribute to him at our lodging in the castle, Dom Nuno by Horta da Moura—a home steeped in the history of this land that he helped defend.
Helpful tip: Visit the castle at the end of the day. The afternoon light is different, and the atmosphere is more peaceful than in the middle of a summer day. There are beautiful spots where you can sample a local wine while simply taking it all in.
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Mourão Castle
Just 10 minutes from Horta da Moura, Mourão Castle is often overlooked by tourist itineraries—which makes it all the more special. Built by order of King Afonso IV, it stands at the highest point of the town and offers breathtaking views of the Alqueva and the border with Spain, just 7 km to the east.
It is a castle that bears the marks of time—parts in ruins, walls of schist, marble, and granite that have withstood wars, the 1755 earthquake, and neglect. There is an honesty in this imperfection that over-restored castles have lost. Admission is free.
Helpful tip: Climb up to the ramparts carefully—there are no railings—but the view is worth it.
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The Millennial Olive Trees of Horta da Moura
Before setting out on an exploration, there’s something to discover right here on the grounds of Horta da Moura: an extraordinary collection of millennia-old olive trees, the oldest of which is nearly 2,500 years old. Their gnarled trunks, rooted in the red Alentejo soil, are silent witnesses to the civilizations that have passed through here—Romans, Moors, and medieval peoples. Strolling among them is an experience of serenity that is hard to describe—and impossible to find anywhere else.
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Megalithism — 7,000 Years of History Just a Few Kilometers Away
One of the most striking surprises for visitors to this region is discovering that the area around Reguengos de Monsaraz is one of the richest in megalithic monuments on the Iberian Peninsula. Just minutes from Horta da Moura, you’ll find menhirs, dolmens, and cromlechs that predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years.
The Cromeleque do Xerez—a stone circle similar to Stonehenge, dating from around 5000 B.C.—is one of the most impressive. The Menir do Outeiro, over 4 meters tall, is another must-see attraction. These monuments aren’t in museums or behind fences—they’re out in the fields, in plain sight, integrated into the landscape as if they belonged to both the sky and the earth in equal measure.
The Reguengos de Monsaraz City Council has a detailed map of the region’s megalithic trails—you can also ask for one at the Horta da Moura reception desk; we’ll be happy to point you in the right direction.
Helpful tip: Visit the menhirs at sunrise or sunset—the low-angle light on the stones is so beautiful that no photograph can fully capture it.
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Museu da Luz — The Village Underwater
About 15 minutes from Horta da Moura, in the new village of Aldeia da Luz, lies one of Portugal’s most unique museums. In 2002, when the floodgates of the Alqueva Dam were closed, an entire village was submerged. The people, the dead, the animals, the plants—everything was moved to a new village built from scratch 3 km from the original one. The old Luz was covered by water.
The Museu da Luz was born out of this history. Built of schist by architects Pedro Pacheco and Marie Clément, it faces the exact spot where the village once stood—and in one of the rooms there is a small window offering a view of the lake above the submerged fields. The ethnographic and archaeological collection houses the objects that the villagers brought with them: pottery, tools, furniture, and mementos. In 2005, it received an honorable mention as the Best Museum in the Country.
It’s a visit that leaves a lasting impression. Not because of its grandeur, but because of the human scale of it all—because of the story of a community that lost the place where it was born and tried to reconstruct its memory. It’s up to us to preserve that memory.
Hours: summer (April–September) 10 a.m.–1 p.m. / 2:30 p.m.–6 p.m.; winter (October–March) 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. / 2:30 p.m.–5:30 p.m. Closed on Mondays. Admission: 2€.
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Sharish Distillery — Gin from the Alentejo
Sharish is one of the most beautiful stories from the Alentejo in recent times. Founded by António Cuco in Reguengos de Monsaraz, it is the first and only interpretive center on the Iberian Peninsula dedicated to gin—which is very trendy and, in this case, began in his wife’s pressure cooker. The name comes from the Arabic word “sharish”—rockrose, the plant that covers the hills of the Alentejo and gave rise to the name Monsaraz.
The guided tour is free (at 11 a.m. and 3:30 p.m. daily) and covers the distillery, the production processes, and the history of the project. For a more complete experience, there are guided tastings of four gins by reservation—including the famous Blue Magic, which changes from blue to pink when mixed with tonic water.
Where: Caminho do Moureal, Reguengos de Monsaraz — about 12 minutes from Horta da Moura.
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Where to eat: from our restaurant to local eateries
5 Minutes Away — Sítio da Moura and Sem Fim
Sítio da Moura, our own restaurant, is the most natural place to start and end the day. High-quality Alentejo cuisine created by a team led by Chef Maria Antónia, local produce, and the peace of mind that comes from not having to go anywhere. Breakfast featuring regional specialties, lunch in the shade, dinner as the starry sky begins to appear outside—each meal has its own special moment. Reserve a table at Sítio da Moura
Don't miss the Alentejo-style brunch this Saturday at lunchtime.
Sem Fim is housed in a restored old olive oil mill, less than 5 minutes away, and is one of the most authentic dining experiences in the area. The venue retains the original olive oil production equipment and features a terrace with a superb view of the Alentejo landscape. It’s open on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays—we recommend making a reservation.
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Up to 30–40 minutes — Tables that remain in memory
Taberna Gato Preto (Monsaraz, ~8 min) — One of the coziest spots near Horta da Moura, with a family-friendly atmosphere and regional cuisine. Ideal for a quick lunch or dinner near Monsaraz. Don’t miss the açorda or the oxtail.
Sahida (Monsaraz, inside the walls) — A bar and restaurant with one of the best locations in Monsaraz, inside the walls with a view of the Alqueva. Great Mediterranean cuisine in a charming setting—perfect for a late afternoon that slips into dinner before you know it.
Gadanha Grocery Store (Estremoz, ~40 min) — A surprise inside a gourmet grocery store: it’s the entrance to one of the Alentejo’s most renowned restaurants, featured in the Michelin Guide. Chef Michele Marques reinterprets Alentejo cuisine with skill and creativity—signature migas, black pork, and desserts that linger in your memory. The grocery store at the entrance sells regional cheeses, sausages, and wines. Reservations required: +351 268 333 262.
Adega Velha (Mourão, ~10 min) — A Mourão classic, serving authentic Alentejo cuisine. The kind of place where locals have lunch at the counter and where soup comes before any other dish on the menu. When the mood strikes and people feel inspired, you’ll hear Alentejo folk singing—one of those things that isn’t planned but, when it happens, stays with you forever. I can’t help but recommend the Cozido de Grão and, to finish, the famous Bolo Rançoso.
Adega dos Ramalhos (Alandroal, ~30–35 min) — Exceptional regional cuisine, fair prices, and that authentic Alentejo atmosphere where the food tastes even better because there’s nothing to be wary of. I recommend the tomato soup with fresh figs (when in season).
Taberna Fim do Mundo (Redondo, ~35 min) — A grocery store over 100 years old that Laura Pimenta transformed into a tavern after quitting her job, changing her life, and creating one of the most authentic restaurants in the Alentejo. Homemade appetizers that change daily depending on what’s freshest, house wine served in pitchers, and decor made from antique pieces from old houses—which are for sale on site. On Fridays, there’s live Alentejo folk singing. Open every day. It’s not a trendy restaurant—it’s much better than that and well worth a visit.
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2-Day Itinerary — Monsaraz and the Highlights
Day 1 — Take it easy
Morning: Arrival at Horta da Moura. Drop off your bags, take a deep breath. Stroll among the ancient olive trees. There’s no rush—this is the pace of the Alentejo. If you’re visiting in the summer, a dip in the pool is a must.
Afternoon: Head up to Monsaraz. Visit the castle, wander through the streets, sit at an outdoor café overlooking Alqueva. At sunset, stand on the battlements.
Evening: Dinner at Sítio da Moura. After dinner, our first night of stargazing—if it’s the right time of year, you can already see the Milky Way with the naked eye from the terrace. Bring a blanket, let your eyes adjust to the darkness for 20 minutes, and look up.
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Day 2 — Alqueva and Gin
Morning: Boat tour on Lake Alqueva. The lake looks different from the water—the scale is entirely different, and Monsaraz in the background has a grandeur that’s hard to imagine from land.
Lunch: Sem Fim (advance reservation required).
Afternoon: Visit to the Sharish Distillery in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Guided tour + tasting with commentary. Return along the lakeshore.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão—and if the sky is clear, it’s worth heading up to Mourão Castle after dinner for a second stargazing session. Its elevation and the lack of artificial light in the surrounding area make it one of the best viewing spots in the region.
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5-Day Itinerary — For Those Who Really Want to Stay
Day 1 — Arrive and rest
Horta da Moura has a pool, lounge chairs, olive trees, and silence. That’s what the first day is for: reading, doing nothing, leaving the city’s pace behind. You don’t just visit the Alentejo—you’re welcomed there.
Dinner at Sítio da Moura. After dinner, enjoy your first night of stargazing by the lake—bring a blanket and a red flashlight, and let your eyes adjust to the darkness. The Milky Way reflected in the Alqueva is one of the most memorable experiences in this region.
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Day 2 — Monsaraz and its medieval history
Morning: A leisurely visit to Monsaraz Castle—the Church of Santa Maria da Lagoa, the pillory, and the whitewashed streets. Lunch at Taverna Os Templários, inside the castle walls.
Afternoon: Visit to the Fresco Museum in the historic center, featuring the famous medieval fresco of "The Good and the Bad Judge"—a rarity in Portugal.
Evening: Dinner at Sem Fim. Afterward, a night of stargazing on the lakeshore—it’s pitch black by the water, and the reflection of the sky on the surface of Lake Alqueva is simply impossible to describe.
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Day 3 — The Alqueva by Boat, Aldeia da Luz, and the River Beach
Morning: Boat tour on Lake Alqueva—there are options ranging from 1 hour to half a day, with stops at deserted river beaches that can only be reached by water. One of these stops lets you disembark and walk to Monte dos Pássaros, the only remnant that survived the flooding of Aldeia da Luz—one of the most striking stories associated with this lake. Another is Ilha Dourada, which is well worth a visit and a swim if you have the time.
Afternoon: Visit to the Museu da Luz in the new Aldeia da Luz, 15 minutes from Horta da Moura. The original village was submerged in 2002 when the dam’s floodgates were closed—the museum preserves the objects, memories, and identity of a community that lost the place where it was born. From a window, you can see the lake right where the village once stood. Afterward, enjoy the Monsaraz River Beach—calm waters, golden sands, and the medieval village in the background. It’s one of the most beautiful river beaches in the country.
Sharish Distillery: Save it for Day 4, or visit after the boat tour if space is available.
Evening: Dinner at Adega Velha in Mourão—and if the mood strikes, you might even hear some Alentejo folk singing. After dinner, head up to Mourão Castle—at night, with the lake glistening below and a sky free of light pollution, it’s a whole different world. One of the region’s lesser-known and most impressive Dark Sky® experiences.
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Day 4 — Estremoz, Megaliths, Reguengos, and Local Handicrafts
If it’s Saturday, the day begins with a visit to the Estremoz Flea Market and Antiques Fair at Rossio Marquês de Pombal — one of the most unique markets in the Alentejo, where you’ll find everything from Alentejo ceramics and tableware to antique furniture, books, copperware, and treasures that can only be found at these Saturday morning stalls.
Morning: Estremoz Market (Saturdays) or, on other days, a morning spent exploring the region’s megalithic monuments — the Cromeleque do Xerez and the Menir do Outeiro are just a few minutes from Horta da Moura and predate the pyramids of Egypt by thousands of years. One of the areas richest in megalithic sites on the Iberian Peninsula—yet one that most visitors rush past without even knowing it exists. Map of the megalithic trails
Lunch: Mercearia Gadanha in Estremoz (if it’s Saturday and coincides with the market) — a Michelin-starred restaurant. Reservations required: +351 268 333 262.
Afternoon: Return via Reguengos de Monsaraz with a visit to Fabricaal—a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs, open to visitors Monday through Friday (10:00 a.m.–1:15 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.–5:00 p.m.). And also the Sharish Distillery, if you didn’t visit it the day before—free guided tours at 11:00 a.m. or 3:30 p.m.
Evening: Free evening in Horta da Moura. Dinner at Sítio da Moura—this time, treat yourself to the Bacalhau no Pão—and then, if the sky is clear (which it almost always is here in the Alentejo), stargazing by the lake. By this point in your stay, you’ll already know where to get the best view, you’ll be familiar with Scorpio, and you’ll have found the Milky Way on your own.
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Day 5 — The Farewell That Doesn't Want to Be a Farewell
Morning: One last walk among the olive trees. A leisurely breakfast. Anyone who wishes can visit Monsaraz River Beach—one of the most beautiful in the country, with calm waters, golden sands, and the medieval village in the background.
Afternoon: If you haven’t been yet, now’s the time to visit Taberna Fim do Mundo in Redondo—if it’s Friday, there’s live Alentejo singing. It’s worth the trip just for that.
Final Lunch/Dinner: Sítio da Moura — the last meal deserves to be here.
Farewell Night: One last time with the sky. Five days in Alqueva teach you to look up in a different way—you can already recognize constellations, you know to wait for your eyes to adjust, and you realize that the silence of the Alentejo and the silence of space are one and the same.
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Fairs, markets, and crafts you won't want to miss
- Estremoz Flea Market and Antiques Fair — every Saturday morning at Rossio Marquês de Pombal. Antiques, ceramics, copperware, books, and other treasures. About 40 minutes from Horta da Moura.
- Fabricaal — a factory producing traditional Alentejo blankets and rugs in Reguengos de Monsaraz. Tours are available Monday through Friday, 10:00 a.m.–1:15 p.m. and 3:00 p.m.–5:00 p.m. Online store available.
- Monsaraz Medieval Fair — summer, dates to be confirmed — historical reenactments, crafts, and medieval cuisine within the city walls.
- Alqueva Festival — cultural and water-based activities by the lake during the summer.
For specific dates, we recommend checking with the Reguengos de Monsaraz City Council or asking at the front desk at Horta da Moura—we always know what’s going on in the region.
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What to Pack (and What to Leave at Home)
- Hat and sunscreen — the Alentejo sun is relentless, even in April
- Comfortable shoes for the uneven streets of Monsaraz
- An extra layer for the evenings — even in July, it gets chilly
- Camera — there's light here that you won't find anywhere else
Leave at home:
- The rush
- The noise from notifications
- The feeling that you have to do a lot to have a good trip
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How far we are from everything
| Monsaraz Castle | 4 km | 8 min |
| Monsaraz River Beach | 5 km | 10 min |
| Mourão (Adega Velha + castle) | 10 km | 15 min |
| Xerez Cromelech / Megalithic Site | 10 km | 15 min |
| Museu da Luz | 12 km | 15 min |
| Sharish Gin | 15 km | 20 min |
| Reguengos de Monsaraz (Fabricaal) | 15 km | 20 min |
| Alandroal (Adega dos Ramalhos) | 30 km | 35 min |
| Fim do Mundo Tavern (Redondo) | 32 km | 35 min |
| Estremoz (Market + Gadanha Grocery Store) | 38 km | 40 min |
| Évora | 60 km | 50 min |
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Monsaraz isn't a destination for checking things off a to-do list. It's a destination of rhythm—of slow mornings, long afternoons, and nights with stars you never imagined could exist like this.
Horta da Moura is right here, in the middle of it all, with the olive trees, the lake, and the silence. Whenever you’re ready, we’ll be here waiting for you.
